Eire go Blog! (Eire go Brach): April 2011

When MJ heard that I was going to take a day tour to the Aran Islands, she couldn't believe her ears.

"What?! That is not nearly enough time. You can't be serious. You can't spend only one day."

Being totally against the rigidity of organized tours, MJ offered to come with me.  We could do our own informal, personal tour of the islands instead. After some preliminary research about transportation and hostels, we agreed to set off Sunday morning bright and early.

We took Bus Eirean out to Galway, the farthest west you can go before reaching the Atlantic Ocean. We decided to take the public bus instead of driving ourselves---even though it took longer with all of the stops, the ride was definitely more relaxing since we didn't have to worry about directions. (Oh, and neither of us had a car...another good reason.)

The bus drops you off 300 feet from the city center, Eyre Square. From there, MJ and I walked around the edge of the city and got our ferry tickets to go to Aran. We then ate lunch sitting on the docks. We were mesmerized by the beautiful view of the boats moored to the landing and the gorgeous ocean....until we actually sat at the edge of the pier. Once you got close, you could see all of the trash floated along the walls, an appalling decoration. We chose to look at the horizon instead and enjoy the view from afar.

After a while, we decided to explore the city. We saw the famed Spanish Arches (I'm not sure why they are fame,d but there were signs directing to them, so we figured they must be important), and the city's largest church. We then quickly found ourselves in the so-called Latin Quarter (the only thing Spanish however are a couple of absurd paintings of the Armada and conquistadors on the side of a building). The Latin Quarter is the heartbeat of the city, and really the main part. It shouldn't be called Quarter; it should be called the Latin Three Quarters since this is basically the entire attraction.

Everyone always says you have to go to Galway, you have to go to Galway, so I was excited to see the infamous city. I was quite surprised, however, to discover that you can walk basically the entire length of the city in 20 minutes, even at a leisurely stroll. The tourist signs were hilarious because they indicated that major attractions included a doorway and Nora Barnacle's house. Pleasant, but not exactly what I would call exciting.

Galway is a great for the arts; it has a young hipster, organic, jazz sort of feel. Everyone is very chill and friendly---exactly what you would expect for a city near the beach. The flea market sold only handmade goods by vendors with dreadlocks or patchwork quilts. The clothing and goods for sale had equisite craftsmanship, but the vendors obviously spent more time on their work than on personal hygeine. Reggae music could be heard softly in the background, humming from various stereos wherever you went.

If you are into the art scene and enjoy live music, writers and painters, and college students (there are several main universities in Galway), then this is the city for you. The whole city appeared to me like an extended college campus. Honestly, most people go to Galway for the drink and the nightlife.

Although, I must admit that the people in Galway seemed more willing to chat. We stopped at a pub and sat amidst the locals who were all shoulder to shoulder, packed in to listen to the music of the live traditional band. In Dublin, people are a little bit more stand-offish; they are inundated with tourists all the time so it takes a little while before they open up. In Galway, people were excited to know where you were from and share a story and a pint. Over the course of an hour, I learned one woman's whole life's drama and she shared the local gossip.

We were extremely lucky with the weather as it was bright, sunny, and completely calm. MJ said that this was the first time in her whole life that she visited Galway and there was no wind. Usually, the wind whips around the streets and blasts you away.   We spent most of our time sitting outside in the beautiful sunshine.

At 5pm, we caught another bus out to the ferry and took a boat to the Aran Islands. Inis Mor is the largest island and where we were headed. There is nothing more relaxing than standing at a ship's railing, watching the sunset as you slowly sail away.

We met two Germans on the boat who asked if they could take their picture with us. "Sure, why not," we said.  After the picture, we chatted for a bit. Then, we said our good byes after we disembarked the ship and figured that would be end of it....until we ran into them again when we were walking on the main road, again when we were having dinner, again when we were riding our bikes, and AGAIN when we were at Dun Aenghus fort. Awkward.

It really brings to mind just how small the island is though. I hope you like everyone you meet because you are sure to meet again and again. There is no avoiding it. From the highest point (at Dun Aenghus) you can literally see the whole island. There are three pubs, two restaurants, and one Supermacs (a fast food joint)....and that's it. No grocery store. No gas station. No anything really. It was wonderful though because we knew that it would be like this before we came. This was the main reason for visiting---the stunning views, gorgeous beaches, and relaxing holiday mentality.

We stayed at the island's only hostel. When we checked-in, we asked how we could get to the fort. The guy at the desk was a young Australian who had only just arrived on the island eight days earlier so he didn't really know much more than us.

Thinking really hard for a moment, he came up with these instructions: "You take a right...no I mean I left at the third...no wait, let me think....fourth bend in the road, yeah the fourth. At the bend, there are two teeny tiny little signs, so if you can find them, they will tell you where to go and that will help." He finally pulled out a map and then added, almost as an afterthought, "Oh and watch out for the cliffs. I forgot about those. Don't fall off."

MJ and I were laughing so hard that he must have thought we were crazy. How could you forget about the cliffs?!

We rented bicycles the next day and just cycled all over the island. We didn't actually need directions because there aren't that many roads. You can either turn left or drive into the ocean, so there isn't too far you can get lost. I am so, so glad that MJ and I decided to go on our own, rather than take an organized tour. Having the whole day to cycle wherever we wanted was amazing!

We stopped at the beach awhile and snoozed in the sun. Then we rode uphill to the fort and snoozed in the sun again while lying on the rocks at the cliff.  I felt like a lizard lying on the cool rocks basking in the sun's warm rays. There were virtually no tourists so it was like we had the whole island to ourselves.

Well, almost to ourselves....MJ got hit on by one of the fort's tour guides. Apparently, Aran men are infamous for being insane flirts. The guy was at least double her age, and hmmmmm how can I say this nicely? Okay, I can't say it nicely so I'll just be blunt. He was not in the least bit attractive. There was no chance in this lifetime that he would ever date MJ. And yet, he tried. He definitely tried, I will give him that.

He asked another tourist to take a picture of the three of us and I almost died laughing at the shocked look on MJ's face when he touched her arm and rolled the fabric of her sleeve between his fingers saying, "oh is this wool? What an amazing sweater." Apparently there are not many single women who live on the island so the guys take bold and desparate measures. A few days after we returned from the island, MJ got a package in the mail at the museum. The guy had found her work address and sent her chocolates! I think that the poor guy needs to get off the island more.

Anyway, except for our close encounter with Bartley (yes, adding insult to injury, his name was Bartley), MJ and I had a marvelous weekend. After the trip we felt rejuvinated, as though solar power had recharged our batteries. The Aran Islands were one word: Stunning.

On the ferry to get to Aran Islands. It takes about an hour by boat to reach Inis Mor (the big one). (It's population is still less than 1,000.)

An Irish Sunset - view from the boat.

There are three pubs on Inis More....One of them happens to be called the American Bar. This is me jumping for joy.

MJ is checking out the hot Aran Island police officer. Mmmm Hmmmm

Yes, we were woken up by a rooster. Two of them were dueling for who could be the loudest.

Cute old man going for his Sunday stroll.

Biking is the best way to get around the island. You can rent a bike for 10 euro a day.

Typical Irish thatched roof cottage. I'm so happy to be cycling.

....10 minutes later....(I had my jacket over the handle bars since it was actually semi-warm. It got tangled in the front wheel spoke and I flew off the road....It took us 15 minutes to get it out!)

We stumbled upon a gorgeous beach!

Hooray for water!

A little sweater shop. The Aran Islands are known for their woolen sweaters with the knitted weaves. Most men on the island are fishmerman. In the past, each family on the island had a specific type of style for the sweater, so if someone got lost at sea, they could identify them by the sweater when the washed up weeks later. Depressing, but interesting.

Dun Aenghus Fort. A fort built atop the highest point of the island. You can literally see the entire width of the island at the top without moving your head from side to side. This was built in the Bronze Age.